Food Drama

  • Christina Tosi’s Milk Bar Is Coming to Your Grocery Store
    by Jaya Saxena on October 15, 2019 at 6:42 pm

    K C Bailey/Netflix The former Momofuku pastry chef secured Series B funding for a grocery expansion Last year, pastry chef Christina Tosi told Eater’s Start to Sale podcast that she wanted to continue building her Milk Bar empire. She specified, “We don’t want to be Starbucks, we don’t want a Milk Bar in every block. That’s the antithesis of the spirit that you should feel when you eat a compost cookie,” and expressed that it would be “cool” to sell to a big food company: “[They] would take the Milk Bar business and make it into something incredible that would inspire me 25 years ago in the grocery store in Virginia in incredible, amazing ways.” Now, Tosi is one step closer to that dream. Fortune reports that Tosi secured Series B funding from Sonoma Brands, the company behind Dang coconut chips, Krave jerky, and other quirky snacks, in what Sonoma says is one of its largest investments. The goal is to expand Milk Bar products into grocery stores nationally. “Our community is so much bigger than just where we have stores,” Tosi told Fortune. “It’s about reaching more people in more meaningful ways.” Sonoma founder Jon Sebastiani said Milk Bar could be the “next Oreo,” and funding could mean you see a Compost Cookie or a Milk Bar Pie (new name and all) at Publix sometime soon. The question is, is it too late? Tosi found fame by running David Chang’s pastry program at Momofuku in 2005, launching childhood-influenced dessert trends like cereal milk soft serve and “birthday cake” as its own flavor. In 2008, she opened Milk Bar, serving more idiosyncratic snacks like the Compost Cookie — stuffed with butterscotch, chocolate, pretzel bits and potato chips — and “naked” cakes. Her brand of impeccably made but still fun and unfussy dessert catapulted her into her own celebrity chef status, judging MasterChef seasons, publishing three cookbooks, and starring in an episode of Chef’s Table: Pastry. Her Milk Bar (which is partially owned by but run independently from Momofuku) now has 16 locations, and she’s already marketed cookie mix at Target and a SoulFuel cookie at SoulCycle. All niche trends eventually seep into the mainstream. Even if you’re not buying or baking Tosi’s goods directly from her, Tosi’s influence can be seen at every bakery and blog that now uses her most obvious tricks, whether it’s not putting icing on the outside of your layer cake, or powders that make your milk taste more like cereal. Tosi admitted this two years ago to Mary HK Choi, describing a salted caramel cookie she had recently eaten. “It makes me laugh because I’m like, I did that,” she said. “Like, no one put pretzels in cookies. Like, holy shit, nine years ago this was not a real thing in the world.” The fact that Oreo has a birthday cake flavor now, and everyone knows to sprinkle their brownies with sea salt before baking, shows how far Tosi’s influence has already gone. Milk Bar COO Sujean Lee told Eater that scaling Milk Bar is a “conscious evolution,” which is why she perhaps didn’t capitalize on her brand at the peak of the “Crack Pie” craze. But though versions of her desserts can be found on menus and blogs, you can’t buy a potato chip-butterscotch cookie from Chips Ahoy. There’s still room in the cookie aisle. Right now, the Compost Cookie and Milk Bar pie are, a decade later, desserts tourists make special trips to try. Her treats, however dissipated and ripped-off, are still special, especially to dessert and food enthusiasts who know of Tosi’s creations, but haven’t gotten to try them because they don’t live near a Milk Bar store or bake themselves. What remains to be seen is whether or not Milk Bar products will taste as good when bought from the grocery store, and if not, how they’ll maintain the business. Exclusive: Christina Tosi’s Milk Bar Raises Series B Funding Round to Expand Into the Grocery Aisle [Fortune] Christina Tosi Has a Cookie [E] It Was Never Like Crack [E

  • Don’t Host a Traditional Thanksgiving. Skip the Turkey and Try This Instead.
    by Jamie Feldmar on October 15, 2019 at 3:15 pm

    Your table doesn’t need to look like a Norman Rockwell painting Every November, without fail, food publications promise to help you master the perfect Thanksgiving. “Best turkey ever!” and “101 drool-worthy sides!” they tease. What follows is usually a rehashing of the holiday’s greatest hits with a few new bells and whistles thrown in, because Thanksgiving is all about tradition (and I would know — I’ve spent a decade-plus in food media, helping put together many of those Thanksgiving packages). This is all well and good if you plan to host a textbook Thanksgiving feast. (And if you do, please see our own recommendations for how to do it right, right this way). But I’m going to tell you something: You don’t have to listen to any of that stuff. You can, and arguably should, feel free to have a totally un-Rockwellian Thanksgiving celebration. Maybe you’re conscientiously objecting to complicated family situations, maybe you have to work, or maybe you, like me, just don’t like turkey very much. You can still throw down for Thanksgiving, but make it your own. After all, tradition is overrated. Skip the Turkey I’m just going to lay it down: Turkey is an inferior meat. On a sandwich, it’s fine. But as a centerpiece to a feast that you’ve likely spent many hours preparing, the ROI just isn’t there. I’ve written in the past about hosting Porksgiving, and I’m a staunch ham proponent— it’s dead simple (it’s already cooked, so all you have to do is make a glaze and carve it), cost-effective, and delivers about 100 times more flavor per square bite than turkey. Other festive meat things you can make besides turkey (or ham): Bo ssam Peking Duck Beef Wellington I’m not the only one who feels this way: Eater Young Gun Lucas Sin (‘19) grew up in Hong Kong before attending college in the United States. “As an immigrant who has less reason to adhere to Thanksgiving tradition,” he says, “many of my Thanksgivings have featured Chinese bastardization/hacks. Turkey just isn’t as succulent as chicken or duck, and what is the deal with the textural uniformity of casseroles, pumpkin pie, and stuffing?” He recalls holidays alone on campus with a crew of international students, cooking up braised duck stuffed with glutinous rice, sweet potatoes with black rice vinegar, and corn and pine nuts in lieu of traditional Thanksgiving fare. You Don’t Need a Dining Table Unfortunately, you cannot create more square footage into being through will power alone. But that shouldn’t stop you from inviting all of your people over. Here’s how to accommodate them all: Tabletops don’t need to come from tables. Upturned cardboard boxes, bookshelves, filing cabinets, and essentially anything with a flat surface can be used as a table. Just throw a tablecloth, pretty sheet, or even a nice silk scarf on top. Same goes for chairs. Ottomans, couches, and the floor are also perfectly viable substitutes; and-or ask your friends to bring their own. You might not be able to fit everything on the table, and that’s totally fine. Set up a buffet in the kitchen, and have guests serve themselves directly out of the cookingware, assembly-line style. Looks Aren’t Everything Now that you are no longer beholden to turkey, you can also free yourself from the pressure to create a Martha-worthy tablescape. “Embrace mismatched tableware, furniture, and linens and focus on clean lines to keep things from feeling chaotic,” says Eater Young Gun Annie Kamin (’19). “Space things as evenly as possible and create rhythm and balance by evenly distributing both large and small dishes across the table.” Speaking of the table, you can make it look beautiful with found materials from your own backyard. “Gather pine branches (can also double as incense), cones, moss, fall leaves, and anything pretty you can find (shake free of bugs!) and arrange right on the table or on a cake platter,” suggests fellow Young Gun Ashleigh Shanti (’19). Finally, don’t have a huge tablecloth? Use a canvas drop cloth instead. “They’re really cheap and no one will guess that you got it from the hardware store,” swears Kamin. Just Go to a Restaurant Here’s a radical idea: You don’t have to cook, not even at all. Go to a restaurant instead. Here’s a bunch that are open in New York. And Los Angeles. And San Francisco. And Las Vegas. Many restaurants offer special prix-fixe menus for Thanksgiving, and they tend to book up early, so make reservations in advance and tip extra-well. That said, you can also go out to a restaurant and not eat Thanksgiving-themed food. Been wanting to try that Sichuan spot in deep Chinatown? Curious about that Georgian place an hour away? There won’t be any traffic; tonight is your night to make it happen. (Tip extra-well here, too.) Family Is Whatever You Say It Is Families are complicated, and it’s not always feasible (or advisable) to be with relativess on Thanksgiving. Remember, one of the pleasures of hosting is that you get to invite whomever you want to, and celebrate however you see fit. (This also means observing Thanksgiving on whatever day you choose to — not everyone has the day off from work.) “Last year, my friend group had a late-night, post-service Friendsgiving in our pajamas. We will likely do the same this year,” said Shanti. Chosen families are family too. Jamie Feldmar is a Los Angeles-based writer and cookbook author. See more at and follow her @jfeldmar.Juliette Toma is an illustrator based in Los Angeles.

  • Hosting Thanksgiving 101
    by Jamie Feldmar on October 15, 2019 at 3:15 pm

    Ideas for recipes, decor, and strategies to successfully cook Thanksgiving for the first time Ah, Thanksgiving. The one time each year when people who have never considered hosting a formal dinner party… host a formal dinner party. Look, I get it. I’ve been writing about food full-time for over a decade, and in the food world, Thanksgiving is the No. 1 biggest holiday of the year (followed, natch, by the Super Bowl). Food editors pull overtime in July developing recipes for November, each year trying to hit the bullseye of Thanksgiving content that feels both new and familiar. It’s a delicate balance — Thanksgiving is all about tradition, so you can’t mess with the classics too much, but you don’t want things to feel staid. And you certainly can’t just repeat whatever you did last year. All of this is to say that there’s an absolutely overwhelming amount of Thanksgiving information out there, and if you’re hosting, it can be nearly impossible to figure out where to begin. If you’re planning a Thanksgiving for the first time, or just need a crash course in holiday entertaining, here is everything you need to know to help things run smoothly. Consider the dirty work of of selecting the most delicious, most reliable recipes for all the classics done, and enjoy a decade’s worth of tips and tricks on how to pull it all off with limited time, space, and budget. Now that’s something to be thankful for. Cook the Basics As the host, you’re likely responsible for providing most of the food, or at the very least, the marquee items: turkey, side dishes, and pie. There are countless ways to approach each, depending on your time and skill level, so I’ve chosen my tried-and-true favorites for the most essential dishes three ways each: classic, with a twist, and fast and easy. The best turkey recipes Classic: Brined and Roasted Turkey (Martha Stewart) With a Twist: Chile-Rubbed Turkey (Bon Appétit) Fast and easy: Spatchcocked Turkey (Serious Eats) The best Thanksgiving sides Classic: Best-Ever Macaroni and Cheese (Edouardo Jordan, chef-owner of Junebaby; Seattle Times) With a Twist: Charred Brussels Sprouts with Bacon and Dates (Travis Lett, chef-owner of Gjelina; Bloomberg) Fast and Easy: Apple-Herb Stuffing (Smitten Kitchen) Best pie recipes Classic: Craig & Kathleen Claiborne’s Mississippi Pecan Pie (Food52) With a Twist: Brandied Pumpkin Pie (NYT Cooking) Fast and Easy: No-Cook Peanut Butter Pie (Real Simple) Outsource Everything Else Here’s a little secret about hosting: You don’t actually have to cook everything, and in fact, there are certain things that are just plain better store-bought. Save yourself the time and hassle of making every single thing from scratch, and round out your table with a few key premade items. Dessert Maybe your oven is otherwise occupied by things like a giant turkey, or maybe you’re just not into baking. This is why bakeries exist. Find the best one in your area and order your pies ahead of time to avoid any last-minute dessert snafus. Cranberry sauce Save yourself the hassle of homemade. No one will know if you just perk up the canned stuff by stirring in some orange juice, citrus zest, and a cinnamon stick. Dinner rolls Three words: Pillsbury Crescent Rolls. They will be eaten, but if there are any leftovers, they can be used to make sandwiches the next day. Decorate, at Least a Little Bit Hosting a textbook Thanksgiving means stepping up your typical dinner-table aesthetic. But you don’t have to go full Pinterest to make a big visual impact. Here are a few low-lift touches to make your table shine. Plates Disposable plates don’t have to look disposable. Check out these plastic plates with a decorative gold filigree edge; these Instagram-friendly amethyst purple watercolor and rose gold paper plates; or this chic navy-and-bronze-trimmed design. Centerpieces Keep it simple. “Eucalyptus or other hearty greens, simply trimmed and laid organically on a table, are a really easy way to create a low-key table centerpieces,” says Eater Young Gun Annie Kamin (’19). “I like to use seeded eucalyptus and incorporate any extra herbs I have on hand, like sage, rosemary, and thyme.” Candles “Don’t underestimate the power of candlelight in setting a cozy tone for an evening,” adds Kamin. “I like to overdo it (as I do with most things), [so I] use a mix of candles of different heights.” Adding a candle to the bathroom also contributes a restaurant-y touch. Devise a Serving Strategy Maybe you live in a giant, beautiful house with its own formal dining room. If that is the case, feel free to put every item on its own piece of carefully selected servingware and make a magazine-worthy tablescape. If you are, however, dealing with spatial limitations, you can still serve a multicomponent meal and make it look good. You will run out of oven space. Schedule cooking times accordingly, and plan a menu with a mix of things you can heat in the oven, on the stovetop, or in the microwave, plus things that you can serve cold or at room temperature to avoid losing your mind. Where do people go immediately upon arrival in any living space? The kitchen. Where do you need the most space on this day full of cooking? The kitchen. Per Kamin, “Trick people into congregating elsewhere when they arrive by luring them away from the kitchen with a bar setup and assortment of snacks literally anywhere besides your oven and stovetop.” Serve things like potatoes, casseroles, mac and cheese, and cornbread straight out their cooking ware, saving both space and time on cleanup. Le Creuset is often on sale at Williams-Sonoma, and you can find beautiful cast-iron pieces at garage sales and vintage shops. Let the sides take center stage on the table, and, after a brief show-and-tell moment with the turkey, retreat to the kitchen to carve the bird in a private, less nerve-wracking setting. Pass the slices around on a platter when you’re done. Ask for Help Thanksgiving is a time for coming together. As such, there’s absolutely no shame in asking your friends and family to lend a hand. Some easy requests: Drinks Ask your guests to bring wine, beer, cider, after-dinner drinks, or anything else they’d like. Tupperware Cut down on leftovers by encouraging guests to bring and pack their own. Clean-up Ask a friend to stay late and help you put your house back in order post-party. Even if it’s more for moral support than anything else, it will make the task less daunting. Jamie Feldmar is a Los Angeles-based writer and cookbook author. See more at and follow her @jfeldmar..Juliette Toma is an illustrator based in Los Angeles.

  • Walmart Will Deliver Groceries Directly to Your Fridge to Compete With Amazon
    by Jenny G. Zhang on October 15, 2019 at 3:04 pm

    Walmart’s new home delivery service sends groceries right to your fridge. | Photo: Walmart Plus, big meat meets fake meat, and more news to start your day Walmart wants to deliver groceries straight to your fridge You may soon be able to get Walmart groceries delivered right to your fridge. On Tuesday, the retail giant launched a new “InHome” service and membership program that costs $19.95 a month, plus a $49.95 smart lock or smart garage door kit, to let body camera-equipped delivery employees into customers’ homes even when they’re not around, CNBC reports. Security measures include a one-time passcode for the delivery person during a specific window of time, a lock that will only open if the deliverer’s body cam is recording and livestreaming, and delivery people who have been Walmart employees for at least a year and have passed several background checks. For now, InHome is only available for 1 million customers in Pittsburgh, Kansas City, and Vero Beach, Florida, but should the pilot program succeed, the company hopes to expand nationwide, putting Walmart in a position to compete with Amazon’s similar home delivery service that first launched in 2017. The future of groceries, judging by these rollouts, is looking more and more like letting strangers into your home to keep your fridge stocked. Out of sight and out of mind. And in other news… In his new book, investigative reporter Ronan Farrow in part credits the late Anthony Bourdain for getting his explosive #MeToo reporting on Harvey Weinstein into the New Yorker. [Page Six] Following the success of start-ups Beyond Meat and Impossible Foods, big meat companies are the next wave of businesses getting in on the plant-based meat market. [NYT] Lay’s new chip flavor is grilled cheese and tomato soup, which I’m assuming just tastes like cheese and tomato. [People] Delivery company DoorDash has opened a virtual kitchen that offers to-go-only food from local and national restaurants. [Restaurant Dive] You can now order Burger King delivery through Uber Eats, which used to be the sole deliverer of McDonald’s until earlier this year. [Insider] Meet the woman behind Pasta Grannies, a YouTube Channel showcasing Italian nonnas making pasta the old-fashioned way. [NYT] A French (?) company is selling a limited-edition bottle of wine with 24-karat gold flakes (??) to celebrate the “milestone in British history” that is Brexit (???). [CNN] Nick Offerman, a.k.a. Parks and Rec’s Ron Swanson, joins celebrity brethren like Ryan Reynolds in launching his own booze (a limited release of Lagavulin Islay Single Malt Whisky). [The Takeout] Succession actor Matthew Macfadyen had to eat a lot of chicken for his standout yacht scene in the finale. [Vulture] Rise and shine, here’s some unsolicited pasta discourse: To sum up: mansplaining with a pile-on thousands of comments deep, and meanwhile the nameless person who all this mockery is aimed at is, in fact, correct.Unless you’re using fresh pasta or fancy dried pasta extruded with brass dies and dried low, her method is just fine.— J. Kenji “The Chosen Fun” López-Alt (@kenjilopezalt) October 15, 2019 • All AM Intel Coverage [E

  • Brazilian Food in the U.S. Is About to Get a Lot More Exciting
    by Rafael Tonon on October 15, 2019 at 2:47 pm

    A dish at Manoella Buffara’s Brazilian tasting menu restaurant Manu | Rubens Kato/Manu For decades, the menus of Brazilian restaurants in America have consisted mainly of steak and stews, but two upcoming restaurants in New York and Los Angeles want to change that For most Americans, Brazilian cuisine usually means feijoada, caipirinha, and steakhouses — the ones with “all the meat you can eat” served by gaucho-style waiters. But this is about to change. In the coming months, two celebrated Brazilian chefs are poised to open restaurants in America’s two largest cities, New York and Los Angeles, bringing with them an ingredient-focused approach to Brazilian food many American diners have yet to experience. Manoella Buffara, chef of tasting-menu restaurant Manu in Curitiba, Brazil, is putting the final touches on the menu at Ella, her upscale Brazilian restaurant opening in New York City in January. Meanwhile, nationally beloved chef Rodrigo Oliveira is deciding which dishes he intends to take to Los Angeles, where he will open a location of his sought-after São Paulo restaurant Balaio in Hollywood this winter. In the last decade, Brazilian restaurants in the States have been more focused on bringing a taste of home to the Brazilian community living nearly 5,000 miles away than pushing the culinary envelope. But these chefs represent a new moment for Brazilian cuisine in the U.S., and “it couldn’t be a better moment,” says Buffara. In recent years, Brazil has attracted the attention of the world’s food scene: In 2015, Michelin choose the country to launch the first — and so far only — version of its influential red guide in Latin America, focusing on São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. TV series, such as Netflix’s Chef’s Table and The Final Table, and other media showcase a modern Brazilian cuisine that just isn’t available in the U.S. “I think that today Brazil is beginning to better prepare itself to expose Brazilian ingredients and take the country’s cuisine to other borders,” says Alex Atala, chef of two-Michelin-starred D.O.M. and former Chef’s Table star. He says the arrival of Oliveira and Buffara to the U.S. is proof. “They are two great ambassadors of Brazilian cuisine, with the ability to show other nuances of our cuisine.” Henrique Schmeil/Manu Manouella Buffara in Brazil Carol Gherardi/Balaio Balaio chef Rodrigo Oliveira For decades, churrascarias were the dominant representation of Brazilian food in the U.S. The Brazilian steakhouses swept the country from the 1990s, when chains like Fogo de Chão and Texas de Brazil opened offering rodízio (or all-you-can-eat) dining, a business model that became popular from coast to coast. At the time, these steakhouses were groundbreaking — presenting an essentially Brazilian cuisine to a broad American audience for the first time — and fundamental to setting the stage for the Brazilian restaurant models that came later. Brazilian-owned, churrasco-focused chain Pampas Grill opened its first location in a Los Angeles farmers market in 2001. The restaurant, now with three locations, focuses on Brazilian barbecue served and priced by the pound, a common restaurant model in Brazil. Pampas catering manager Gabriela Kruschewsky says that back when it opened, there weren’t many Brazilian restaurants in the city. “And there definitely weren’t fast-casual options for those who wanted to eat Brazilian churrasco without walking into an all-you-can-eat establishment,” she says. “Brazilian food in the U.S. was defined by the churrascaria experience.” In the last few years, Kruschewsky has noticed that customers are more open to trying Brazilian food in a variety of formats. “We see so much newness pop up all the time now,” she says. “Brazilian food in mall food courts, food trucks, or cafes that offer pastries and appetizer-driven selections, not to mention the craze we’re experiencing with acai bowls.” After the Brazilian steakhouse boom in the 1990s, Brazilian-owned restaurants began to serve hearty cuisine that wasn’t just about cuts of meat on gleaming skewers. These new restaurants offered a more diverse sample of what Brazilians ate at home. When Henrique Stangorlini opened his Brazilian bar and restaurant Beco in Brooklyn in 2009, the comfort foods that shaped his childhood in Brazil were a must, including moqueca (a shrimp stew made with coconut milk and cilantro) and, of course, feijoada, the traditional Brazilian stew. “I wanted to create a place with the feeling of being invited to a friend’s home, like it is in all botecos [no-frills, Brazilian bars],” Stangorlini says. “And feijoada has always meant that to me.” But the restaurants from Oliveira and Buffara are going beyond homey comfort foods to highlight a different kind of Brazilian food: a refined and modern cuisine that prioritizes native ingredients in an attempt to update traditional recipes and techniques. And although there’s nothing like it in the U.S. today, there is precedent for Brazilian fine dining in the States: In 1994, a French-born chef tried to introduce a glimpse of real Brazilian cuisine to New Yorkers. That year, Claude Troisgros, who became a renowned chef in Brazil, opened C.T. Restaurant close to Madison Square Park. It was, at the time, “one of the most remarkable restaurants” to open in New York City, according to Ruth Reichl’s three-star New York Times review. Although the restaurant was well received by the public and critics, Troisgros sold it in 1996 to focus on projects in Brazil. “I gave myself three years to stay in NYC. When I accomplished my goal, I came back to Brazil,” Troisgros, who is a member of France’s renowned Troisgros family, said to a local Brazilian newspaper at the time. Now, chefs Buffara and Oliveira are taking up the torch. Oliveira runs two of the most acclaimed restaurants in São Paulo: Mocotó, focused on northeastern Brazilian cuisine (and where every international chef dines when they arrive in the city) and the newer Balaio, where Oliveira serves updated regional dishes from a modern building inside a cultural center on the city’s most important avenue. Carolina Gherardi/Balaio Balaio’s cupim de panela with corn couscous and fava beansIn LA, Oliveira is partnering with restaurateur Bill Chait to open a branch of Balaio at the upcoming Thompson Hollywood hotel. He plans to make some changes to the concept and menu to make Brazilian cuisine more relatable to the American audience, “but without being caricatured,” he says, adding that other Brazilian restaurants in the U.S. have tried to show Brazilian food only as “ethnic, and exotic, which it’s not.” Like Balaio in Brazil, LA’s Balaio will likely serve a vegetarian moqueca (many kinds of rice prepared with Brazilian ingredients) and vegan bobó, as well as Brazilian snacks like coxinhas, pasteis, and Oliveira’s famous dadinhos de tapioca (cubes of tapioca and curd cheese). At Manu in Curitiba, Buffara explores the rich vegetable biodiversity of Paraná, the state where she put down roots after working in world-renowned restaurants like Noma and Alinea. At her new New York restaurant, Ella, Buffara will merge Brazilian cooking techniques with locally sourced ingredients, showcasing a modern approach to Brazilian fine dining. Among the ingredients that Buffara is likely to present to New Yorkers — and to the crowds of tourists visiting the area around Chelsea Market, where her restaurant will be located — are fermented cassava, pupunha palm heart, and dried mushrooms from Paraná. “I want to show my guests unique techniques and dishes,” she says. “We have much more than feijoada and churrasco to offer.” The chef says that she was initially hesitant to open a restaurant abroad, but that when New York City entrepreneurs Michael Satsky and Brian Gefter approached her three years ago, she became convinced opening a New York restaurant would be a good opportunity to challenge stereotypes about her country. “There is a lack of knowledge and information from the foreign public about Brazilian cuisine. We have many interesting ingredients and processes that are very little known: Who knows that we produce one of the best oysters in the world or that we have many tasty wild mushrooms?” Buffara says. “For the first time in history, we will have all this rich food of Brazil being served outside the country in proper restaurants.” The opening of these two restaurants, almost simultaneously, in the two largest cities in the country marks not an isolated shift, but the beginning of a small movement paving the way for other, similar Brazilian restaurants. This is true even in practical ways — both Buffara and Oliveira say that a third wave of Brazilian restaurants may create a new and rich supply of products directly from the country (it becomes easier to import ingredients in a market where demand for them is higher), in turn making it easier to open ingredient-focused Brazilian restaurants. “It is important to keep in mind that the world’s great kitchens have only gained prominence in other continents by supporting the production of high-quality ingredients and culture,” Atala points out. Oliveira says that as Balaio develops a supply chain, it will focus mainly on dry ingredients, such as Brazilian spices, dried herbs, and various types of flour, which are the basis for many recipes, such as farofas, a very popular side dish in Brazil made with toasted flour. Victor Vasconcellos, head chef of Balaio, is already living in Los Angeles to run the project and look for suppliers and local ingredients. “My personal goal is to show a farofa as good as we have in Brazil and make Americans love it as we do,” he says. Vasconcellos thinks it won’t be so hard to please the American patrons, especially in Los Angeles and New York, where he believes diners are open to new flavors and used to strong spices, as evidenced by the popularity of Asian and Mexican cuisines in both cities. But while those cuisines expanded alongside growing immigrant populations, the new Brazilian restaurants aren’t necessarily catering to the more than 1 million Brazilians living in the U.S. — there are already the churrascarias and other venues to remind them of home. Instead, Buffara and Oliveira want to change the perception of Brazilian cuisine for all New Yorkers and Angelenos. “We are looking forward to this new project and eager to show local diners all the richness of our recipes,” says Oliveira, “It will be an important step for our trajectory.” And certainly for that of Brazilian cuisine as a whole, too. Rafael Tonon is a Brazilian journalist and food writer based in São Paulo.

  • This Halloween, Look to ‘The Great British Baking Show’ for Evenly Baked Costume Ideas
    by Brenna Houck on October 15, 2019 at 1:10 pm

    Channel 4/Facebook From the frosted hair of Paul Hollywood to the goth regalia of Noel Fielding, everyone’s favorite British baking show is rife with Halloween inspiration With Goth baker Helena Garcia out of the tent, only co-host Noel Fielding remains to bring the spooky season vibe to the Great British Baking Show. So why not give the show and the holiday an assist with a GGBS/GBBO Halloween costume of your own? Take on the alter ego of Prue Leith with a primary color getup, statement specs, and a wacky matching necklace. Team up with a partner and transform into goofy duo Sandi Toksvig and Noel Fielding with fun patterned jumpers. Raid your closet for a blue button up shirt and become Paul Hollywood, the harshest judge at the Halloween party who gives out handshakes only to those with the best outfits. OR if you’re still reeling from the judge/host shakeup several years ago, make a statement as Zombie Sue, Zombie Mel, or Zombie Mary Berry and demonstrate that while gone, they will NOT be forgotten. This year, embrace the Great British Baking Show style for a DIY costume. Here’s some suggestions to get you started. Simone Padovani/Awakening/Getty Images/ Hautelook/Zenni/Lottieoflondon/Nordstrom Prue Leith costume Recipe: The key here is to channel a Mondrian painting. Depending on what kind of hair you have, you’ll maybe need a gray wig or gray hair paint, and a pair of square-rimmed glasses in either bright red, electric blue, or rainbow is a must. Throw on a bright blue, red, or yellow top or a solid-bright colored jacket over a color-blocked tunic. From there, layer on a whimsical piece of chunky statement jewelry and a drop a long colorful scarf around your shoulders. Wear black slacks and matching, bold-colored slip-on shoes. Partner Costume: Paul Hollywood (bonus: you can split the cost of hair paint) Mark Bourdillion/Walt Disney Television via Getty Images/Belk/Amazon/Old Navy Paul Hollywood costume Recipe: Try to look as icy and withholding as you can and practice your furrowed brow look. Wear a button-up in a solid color such as blue, olive green, black, or light pink. Remember to roll up the sleeves to mid-forearm. Leave the top two buttons on the shirt unfastened. Put on some dark blue jeans in a relaxed fit. Point at various objects at the party and say they are either “underpoofed” or “overworked.” Avoid all things matcha flavored. Maybe carry around a loaf of bread. Partner Costume: Prue Leith or Mary Berry Netflix/Amazon/Yoins/Adidas Sandi Toksvig costume Recipe: Start with a blonde wig, black relaxed fit jeans, and white sensible sneakers. Choose a long-sleeve knit sweater with a simple design (think: rainbow stripes or hearts) layered over a collared blouse. Alternatively, go for the untucked button-up blouse with a bold print (think cherries or rabbits) or one in a bright, solid color such as red. Get really good at trivia. Partner Costume: Noel Fielding Netflix/Dresslily/Amazon/Asos/DSTLD Noel Fielding costume Recipe: The cup truly runneth over when it comes to all the ways you can dress like Noel. Pick out a shaggy black wig, some Beatle boots (glitter or leopard print optional), and a pair of very tight skinny jeans. Add to that the very loudest jumper you can find: clashing patterns, cheetah print, cartoon characters, and birds are all game. Apply lots of black eyeliner. Load up on goth jokes and do not skimp on macabre whimsy. Partner Costume: Sandi Toksvig Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images/Pinspark/Jurxy/Averill’s Sharper Uniforms/LL Bean Mary Berry costume Recipe: Wear dark colored trouser jeans with a thin belt. For a top, go for a matching sweater set in a pastel shade or a bright pink collarless blazer with a striped cotton shirt. Maybe tie a silk scarf around your neck if your feeling sassy or pair the outfit with a refined set of pearls. Put on some ballet flats. Talk a lot about soggy bottoms. Partner Costume: Paul Hollywood Trio Costume: Go as a throuple of departed cast members with Mel Giedroyc and Sue Perkins Netflix/Lee/Wanted/Walmart/Jessica CC Mel Giedroyc costume Recipe: Put on a pair of pleated slacks in a dark color. Wear a bold striped shirt with a hot pink or electric yellow blazer. Accessorize with a simple gold wrist watch and either oxfords or loafers. Partner Costume: Sue Perkins Netflix/Modcloth/EyeBuyDirect/Beyove/Lands’ End Sue Perkins costume Recipe: Wear thick, square-rimmed, black glasses with a thin silver chain necklace. Your uniform includes a fitted navy blue blazer, a bright colored button up with a straight point collar, and tan oxfords. Match the outfit with a pair of blue trousers or distressed, loose fit jeans. Be prepared for a lot of people to compliment your Rachel Maddow costume. Ideally, your Mel will be there for support. Partner Costume: Mel Giedroyc For more ideas: Accent your costume by dressing your pet as a pastry or a cake. Bonus points if you go for the less obvious fauna outside the walls of the tent: squirrels, sheep, and pheasants.

  • Panera Bread Hits Modernist Trend With Sous Vide Mac and Cheese
    by Jaya Saxena on October 14, 2019 at 8:21 pm

    The fast-casual chain has since fired the employee who posted a relatively harmless TikTok revealing how Panera’s mac and cheese is packaged and prepared Ever since Thomas Jefferson helped popularize macaroni in America, we have found ways to innovate the recipe, which is somehow both sophisticated and comforting. Laced with black pepper? A treat! Baked with quattro formaggi? Abbondanza! And now, national chain Panera Bread is upping the stakes by employing that bastion of modernist culinary technique, the sous vide, in their macaroni and cheese plating. Eat your heart out, Ferran Adrià. Apparently, this is how Panera Bread prepares the mac and cheese. (via TikTok)— UberFacts (@UberFacts) October 11, 2019 Curiously, people are really upset about this TikTok which shows that Panera Bread’s mac and cheese is made by dunking a pre-packaged bag of pasta and sauce into a bath of boiling water to cook. It’s how…a lot of fast food is cooked, and given that it has about the same ingredients as a box of Annie’s, the preparation seems like a minor crime, barely a blip in the fast casual landscape. Panera Bread has been trying to rebrand itself as a place for “whole” foods, from sustainable sources and free from preservatives and artificial colors, evoking kitchens where everything is made from scratch. So it’s understandable that the sight of a box full of vacuum-sealed bags of pasta doesn’t fit that image. Then again, this isn’t so different from freezing servings of soup at home and reheating them as needed, and it is probably easier to keep sanitary than a bubbling vat of cheese. The TikTok was repackaged in a tweet from UberFacts, which has since gone viral, inspiring others to share similar “surprising” dispatches from fast food kitchens. Others have pointed out that when a fancy-pants New American restaurant puts “sous vide” on the menu everyone is willing to shell out an extra $15. Panera says they use the frozen bag method “to avoid using certain preservatives that do not meet our clean standards…This is how we are efficient and how we make it consistent. We want that experience to be great, and that’s the best way to do it.” But despite some defenses, the woman who made the video said Panera Bread fired her over it. If you didn’t know that “fast food” generally means a lot of prepackaged food getting reheated (that’s how they guarantee the fast part) — well, now you know. Panera’s warmed-up offering is still leagues better than the instant Easy Mac I microwaved in college.

  • The Most Excruciating ‘Succession’ Dinner Scenes, Ranked by Distress
    by Jenny G. Zhang on October 14, 2019 at 6:54 pm

    Succession often takes place around a dinner table. | Photo: HBO For the Roys, battles are fought in the boardroom and at the dinner table For a show about billion-dollar deals, corporate backstabbing, and three power-hungry siblings’ fight to inherit their father’s vast media empire (and a fourth sibling’s fight to … decant wine quickly), an awful lot of Succession — HBO’s bitingly funny series about the machinations and misdeeds of a fictional, Murdoch-like family — takes place around the dinner table. In the world that the Roy family occupies, wining and dining and power lunches are as commonplace as doomed media outlets being unceremoniously shut down and stripped for parts by profit-hungry vultures. While the setting may vary — from a fine dining tasting menu to an executive retreat at a remote European hunting lodge — the role meals play remains constant: They’re battlefields on which to negotiate power, money, and daddy Logan Roy’s love, the three things that the characters desire most. There are so many meals in Succession, in fact, that I rewatched every episode, reviewed each meal, and ranked the best ones according to a strict set of self-imposed rules: a “meal” must involve two or more people seated and eating at a table; “best,” while subjective, consists of all the usual criteria by which a normal human being may rate a meal — food, ambiance, company — in addition to the Succession-required metric of power plays and money moves. These are not the meals that I, personally, would wish on myself, as I do not enjoy partaking in betrayal and four-dimensional chess with my bread and butter, but within the ambition-gilded world of Succession, they are the lunches and dinners that are worth remembering. Screenshot: Succession/HBO Family time is negotiation time.8. Mom’s home cooking, Season 2, Episode 7, “Return” Facing a possible shareholder rebellion, patriarch Logan (Brian Cox) dispatches Roman (Kieran Culkin) and Shiv (Sarah Snook) to England to convince their mother — and major shareholder of Waystar Royco — Caroline (Harriet Walker) not to side with opponents Stewy Hosseini (Arian Moayed) and Sandy Furness (Larry Pine), who are waging a proxy war against Logan. The two youngest Roys dutifully cross the Atlantic to visit their mother, who we last saw asking guests at Shiv’s and Tom’s wedding how long they predicted the marriage would last. Food: Instead of a 48-ounce T-bone steak with truffle fries, Caroline dishes up that classic combination of pigeon, potatoes, and wine. ★☆☆☆ Ambiance: Honestly, as transparently transactional as this exchange is, it’s pretty par for the course for this family, so there’s a comforting kind of casualness to the meal. Almost homey, one could say. Love to be raised in a household where love and affection are withheld until they can be divvied out in thimblefuls as paltry rewards or bribes! ★★☆☆ Company: Caroline, in case it wasn’t clear from her behavior at Shiv’s wedding, does not seem like a particularly caring mom or decent human being. No wonder she and Logan were once a match, and no wonder they later got divorced. ★★☆☆ Power plays and money moves: Mother and children bat around the offer of tens of millions of dollars so casually that their conversation could incite class warfare. Ultimately, Caroline comes out on top, offering to accept either Logan’s summer palace in the Hamptons (a place that she loathes, but that she knows Logan loves), or $20 million and the Roy children for Christmas. Not only is this a win-win for her, but she gets the added pleasure of callously treating her children like bargaining chips that they all know Logan will discard in favor of the Hamptons estate. “I think we have to hear which he’d prefer,” she says. “Let’s make him choose.” Holy shit, that is a barbed maneuver! ★★★☆ Screenshot: Succession/HBO This butter is COLD and UNSPREADABLE.7. Cold butter, Season 1, Episode 4, “Sad Sack Wasp Trap” The Roys’ annual charity gala is a black-tie affair attended by New York’s wealthiest. This year, it’s overseen by Connor (Alan Ruck), the eldest Roy child — and a half-brother to Kendall, Shiv, and Roman — who otherwise keeps himself busy with voluntary unemployment, weird politics, and a girlfriend who may be a sex worker he once hired. The event, a clashing of money, performative philanthropy, and misunderstandings, sets off a chain of events that shapes the rest of the season. Food: Some of the food served includes lasagna, salad, and bread with butter too cold to spread. “The butter’s all fucked! You fuckwads, there’s dinner rolls out there ripping as we speak!” Connor screams at the kitchen staff before attempting to fire them all en masse, demonstrating that all it takes is a hint of supervisory power — and some pressure from dear dad — to turn someone into even more of an asshole. ★☆☆☆ Ambiance: Ostensibly classy. Dully fancy. You know. ★★☆☆ Company: Just a big roomful of rich people! Choose your players! ★★☆☆ Power plays and money moves: Due to a mix up with teleprompter and the underhanded tattletale instincts of snitch Connor, Logan takes this public event as an opportunity to fuck over his heir apparent Kendall. “I see you,” Logan hisses privately to his son after announcing in a speech that he would not be retiring. “I spied you fucking out, son, don’t ever do that to me again.” This particular battle may have been waged just in Logan’s head, but it kicks off a struggle between father and son that impacts the entire arc of Succession. ★★★★ Screenshot: Succession/HBO “Thank you for the chicken.”6. Tom displays character growth, Season 2, Episode 10, “This Is Not for Tears” Tom (Matthew Macfayden) — on the heels of a potentially marriage-ending talk on the beach with Shiv, prompted by her not defending him against a possible ouster — marches right up to Logan for what is quite possibly one of the most exciting minute-long encounters in television history. Food: Chicken so good, Tom just had to steal a bite. ★★☆☆ Ambiance: On the one hand, they’re aboard a mega-yacht on the beautiful Mediterranean. On the other, the question of who will be deemed the “blood sacrifice” forced to take the fall for Waystar Royco’s crimes looms over them like a grim reaper. A mixed bag, one could say. ★★☆☆ Company: Tom and Logan, one of the least naturally occurring pairings in the series, have an established dynamic: Tom kowtows, Logan barely tolerates. While that would normally be a gut-roiling duo to be in the company of, the change in their dynamic in this scene kind of makes you want to stick around. ★★☆☆ Power plays and money moves: Everyone loves an underdog story, and in the world of Succession, Minnesota-raised Tom is one of the underdoggiest of them all. Fueled by a reckless surge of desperate rage, he confronts his CEO and father-in-law by grabbing a piece of chicken from Logan’s plate, taking a big bite, and throwing the breast back onto the plate. Tom’s muffled “Thank you for the chicken,” delivered through a mouthful of meat to a shocked Logan, is somehow the most dignified he has ever appeared. We also get what’s maybe the most Logan Roy line of all time, when he wonders aloud to Shiv what Tom has planned next, “Stick his cock into my potato salad?” ★★★★ Screenshot: Succession/HBO The satisfied look of a man who has just thrown away platters of expensive seafood in exchange for pizza.5. Pizza in the Hamptons, Season 2, Episode 1, “The Summer Palace” It should come as no surprise to anyone that the Roys have a mansion known as the “summer palace” in the Hamptons (which, in real life, was an estate built for Henry Ford’s grandson in the 1960s). Confronted with the threat of the “bear hug” hostile buyout that Kendall, Stewy, and Sandy initiated at the end of the first season, Logan decides to hold court at the summer palace in an attempt to seek clarity and a new successor. Food: Enraged and disgusted by rotting, raccoon carcasses that have been stuck in the chimney long enough to invite maggots, Logan yells at his house staff to get rid of the lobster and shrimp they had prepared and to order pizza. What must be hundreds of dollars worth of seafood is unceremoniously dumped in the trash outside. (The pizza, to be fair, looks very appetizing.) ★★★★ Ambiance: Reminder that Logan and the staff have just unearthed rotting, maggot-infested raccoon carcasses in the chimney. It’s not a sexy environment. ★☆☆☆ Company: After a break, the gang is back together again! ★★☆☆ Power plays and money moves: To stick or sell: that is the question Logan is mulling over. Too bad no one dares speak their mind freely; Shiv even laughs at that invitation. A cowed, sycophantic court of an authoritarian’s own making — what a neat foreshadowing of dinner scenes to come! ★★★☆ Screenshot: Succession/HBO Greg and Tom are crunching through the bones of fried whole birds under there.4. How to eat like you have money, Season 1, Episode 6, “Which Side Are You On?” By sheer, bumbling force of will and the power of his bloodline, newcomer Greg (Nicholas Braun) — the grandson of Logan’s brother — finds himself on the periphery of the Roys’ inner circle. Tom, recognizing another outsider (who is also the one family member he outranks and can therefore bully), quickly takes Cousin Greg under his wing and to a nice tasting-menu restaurant after they commit some casual white collar crimes. While the whole episode is nothing but a series of strategic dinners, this meal stands out, not least because it gives us the enduring image of these two idiots sitting in a trendy restaurant, heads shrouded in napkins. Food: Monkfish and ortolan, a delicate songbird deep-fried and eaten whole with a napkin over one’s head because it’s so controversial — and, in some places, illegal — to eat. “That’s so good,” Tom sighs, while Greg, choking on the small bones and brain of the bird, comments: “It’s a rather … unique flavor.” Bet you anything he was thinking about how much he’d rather be eating California Pizza Kitchen’s Cajun chicken linguini. ★★☆☆ Ambiance: Chic surroundings befitting of one of the “most exclusive pop-ups of the city,” in Tom’s words. ★★★☆ Company: Of all the messed-up relationships on Succession, Greg and Tom’s remains one of the strangest — and yet, oddly, the most touching. “We have a bond,” Tom tells Greg during dinner (reminder: they just did crimes together!) “I was an outsider once … It was hard, and you create this kind of protective shell, but underneath we’re all just little nudie turtles.” Don’t you mean … inside every Gregg is a vulnerable Tomlette waiting to be cracked free? ★★★☆ Power plays and money moves: What Tom wants to teach Greg (apart from how to do crimes), is how to live like a rich person, and this dinner is a foundational lesson. “Here’s the thing about being rich: it’s fucking great. It’s like being a superhero, only better. You get to do what you want, the authorities can’t really touch you, you get to wear a costume, but it’s designed by Armani, and it doesn’t make you look like a prick,” says the guy who comes off as a prick 97 percent of the time. ★★☆☆ Screenshot: Succession/HBO Two households, both alike in self-importance.3. Dinner with the Pierces, Season 2, Episode 5, “Tern Haven” On a mission to woo the Pierces, the family that owns a rival media group known for its dedication to chasing the truth and winning Pulitzers (the Succession-verse Sulzbergers to the Roys’ Murdochs?), the Roy clan helicopter out to the Pierces’ WASP-y estate for a weekend of smarming and charming. Dinner, a feast made by a staff of at least three is served with a side of awkward small talk (Roman’s girlfriend Tabitha: “We’re not planning to have a baby because that would require us having sex.”) and the implicit sense of purpose driving the entire visit. The Roys want to acquire the Pierces’ PGM, and the Pierces want the billions that the Roys are offering, but neither side wants to come off as too desperate. Food: Roast beef, soup, rolls, salad, potatoes, haricots verts, spinach (or, as Tom likes to call it, “king of edible leaves, His Majesty the spinach”). Nothing too thrilling, but solid and traditional, just like the Pierces. ★★★☆ Ambiance: Take the strained civility of a Thanksgiving dinner and gradually turn the dial up until you hit the exact moment that Shiv destroys any remaining chance that she will be named Logan’s successor. “Oh for fucks sake, Dad, just tell them it’s going to be me,” she says in response to Nan’s inquiry and Logan’s hedging. Silence, almost echoing in the cavernous dining room. Stricken faces around the table. Logan, jaw clenched, barely concealing his fury. Try enjoying your roast in that icy tension. ★☆☆☆ Company: It’s hard to imagine a family more insufferable than the Roys, and yet the Pierces, with their smug sense of propriety and ritual of reciting Shakespeare instead of saying grace, are worthy rivals, indeed. ★★☆☆ Power plays and money moves: Well, it’s official: Shiv “fucked it,” as the youngest Roy tells Tom after the nightmare meal. ★★★★ Screenshot: Succession/HBO “Eat up, piggies!”2. Boar on the floor, Season 2, Episode 3, “Hunting” It’s difficult to describe the disturbing, magnetic, can’t-look-away trainwreck of a masterpiece that is “boar on the floor.” You see, Waystar Royco executives fly to a Hungary hunting lodge for a corporate retreat. After a vigorous day of killing stuff, they retire for dinner, only to find themselves trapped in an ominous-looking banquet hall with Logan Roy, who is out for blood. You know what, just watch it: Food: Sausage presumably made from the very boars these white-collar office ninnies slew during their literal hunt. Level of deliciousness unknown; the victims of the figurative hunt are too busy debasing themselves to comment, “Yummy!” ★★★☆ Ambiance: BOAR ON THE FLOOR! BOAR ON THE FLOOR! BOAR ON THE FLOOR! ★☆☆☆ Company: If the thought of being stuck on an overnight, overseas retreat with your coworkers sounds hellish, just imagine a paranoid and furious Logan Roy being one of those colleagues. ★☆☆☆ Power plays and money moves: There is no bigger display of dick-swinging power. ★★★★★★★★★★ Screenshot: Succession/HBO A test of loyalty and backstabbing.1. Breakfast with a death sentence, Season 2, Episode 10, “This Is Not for Tears” After years of covering up heinous acts like sexual harassment and coercion, Waystar Royco must finally pay for (some of) its crimes by sacrificing a “skull,” a.k.a. a member of senior management whose scapegoating will be enough to satisfy the shareholders and the American public. To decide who that skull will be, Logan gathers his loyal servants aboard an obscenely decked-out yacht for a breakfast discussion of which person should be hypothetically thrown off the ship to stop it from sinking. Logan, who knows that the shareholders think he should step down, opens the discussion with the martyrizing statement, “I think the obvious choice is me.” As undoubtedly planned by Logan, the group immediately begins protesting — and the circle jerk of betrayal begins. Food: A decent-enough-looking array of breakfast foods like croissants and smoothies, but who can muster up an appetite when there are colleagues to throw under the bus? ★★☆☆ Ambiance: A gorgeous backdrop of sunshine, azure waters, and warm sunshine, but who can fully decompress when there are colleagues to throw under the bus? ★★☆☆ Company: Members of the work family and the actual family, such as Gerri (“daughters first class on the company coin”), Karl (“I just went for the sports massage, I had no idea it was that kind of establishment”; also, “sausage thief”), Roman (“widely known as a horrible person”), Greg (“Greg sprinkles are a fantastic garnish to anyone seated at this table”), and Shiv and Tom (“beauty and the beast”), but who can enjoy their kinship when there are colleagues to throw under the bus? ★☆☆☆ Power plays and money moves: In case it wasn’t obvious, this meal is all about throwing colleagues under the bus. But in direct contrast with the dark-lit, primeval chaos of “boar on the floor,” this power breakfast, eaten in broad daylight on a fancy boat, is strategically, agonizingly restrained. Siblings and coworkers artfully deflect blame and offer each other up for slaughter under the cover of this all being a hypothetical thought experiment, stripped of emotions. In Kendall’s words: “I’m saying this but I don’t believe it, I’m just saying it because this is the time we’re all saying things.” The bullshitting is truly masterful, and, trapped by the inflated score I gave “boar on the floor,” I must hereby assign the same star rating here: ★★★★★★★★★★ Update: October 14, 2019, 2:54 p.m.: This article was updated to include scenes from Succession’s season 2 finale.

  • California Ends ‘School Lunch Shaming’ for Students Who Owe Fees With New Law
    by Jenny G. Zhang on October 14, 2019 at 3:17 pm

    School lunch debt has become an increasingly contentious problem in the U.S. | Photo: Africa Studio/Shutterstock Plus, welcome to the era of the celebrity virtual restaurant, and more news to start your day California outlaws school lunch shaming School lunch shaming is now banned in California, after Gov. Gavin Newsom signed into law a bill that guarantees all students will receive meals of their choice even if their parents or guardians owe unpaid meal fees. Per the legislation, students with outstanding balances will not be “shamed, treated differently, or served a meal that differs” from what other students are being served. Newsom’s support for the bill was partly inspired by the actions of a 9-year-old student, who used his entire allowance to pay off the $74.80 lunch debt accrued by his fellow third graders at his Napa County elementary school, the governor said in a statement. “He showed how at many schools across the country, students whose parents are not able to pay for their lunch are given a cheaper, ‘alternative’ lunch that causes them to stick out from their peers,” said Newsom. Stories of school lunch debt, which is prevalent across U.S. schools, have drawn plenty of public attention in recent months. A Pennsylvania school district made headlines when it sent letters to parents with outstanding balances telling them to pay or else their kids could end up in foster care. In another case, Chobani founder Hamdi Ulukaya donated nearly $50,000 to pay off the lunch debt of a Rhode Island school district that planned to deny hot food to students who owed meal fees. And in other news… Uber Eats and Rachael Ray are teaming up to create a virtual restaurant — one that exists purely for delivery, with no physical store — in 13 cities across the U.S. and Canada. [Bloomberg] Grocery delivery service FreshDirect is reportedly looking for a buyer. [NY Post] Restaurateur Bruce LeFavour, who played a role in the early California cuisine movement, has died. [NYT] A judge has ordered a New York restaurant to pay $64,000 for repeatedly turning away customers accompanied by registered service dogs, who make for very polite dinner guests, imo. [Vice] Barney Greengrass, a 111-year-old Jewish deli/restaurant/institution in New York, has been shut down by the health department, which cites mouse droppings and roaches among the restaurant’s violations. [NYT] This record-setting 5.6-pound avocado made enough guac for 20 people. [CNN] If you’re wondering what today’s Google Doodle is supposed to be, the answer is a phenakistiscope (spinning disc) of pancakes flipping. [The Verge] Try reading this AITA about a guy who won’t “let” his sick wife make herself her favorite comfort food (it gets worse!) without your blood pressure rising. [r/AmITheAsshole] Fashion, but make it pasta: So happy that I got this bag. Now I never have to go anywhere without carrying the things I need most— teddy v 2.0 (@teddyvalenzuela) October 14, 2019 • All AM Intel Coverage [E

  • How Millennials Killed — Then Resurrected — the Dinner Party
    by Nisha Chittal on October 14, 2019 at 2:21 pm

    Less money, space, and time has led to the end of fancy, status-affirming dinner parties, making way for a chiller, better time

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